Four Apostles versus Firriato Quater, Bandol Tempier and Domaine Gauby Vieilles Vignes.
On a sunny afternoon in October 2009, we organized a tasting of opulent reds from the 2005 vintage. The sole four wines we compared were very singular bottles, all of them. And even if the samples arrived from very different places – two coming from the South of France, one introduced from Sicily and one brought from New Zealand – they nevertheless have one fact in common. They are all blends, and all are elaborated from an assemblage of four different grapes.
Vier Rote hoch Zwei –Tasting started with the challenger from Matakana, a region of rolling hills in the Northland of New Zealand’s Northern island. The name of the wine is eponymous with the winery: Providence. Owner James Vuletic is no newcomer and his wines are global players on the wine lists of top-grade restaurants in Japan and other Asian countries, as well as in Europe. These reds are in the style of French wines; smooth, silky and with warm tannins. But their full-bodied structure gives them strength. Jim Vuletic normally blends Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec in its Providence Cuvée, but this is a new release. Four Apostles has Syrah within the blend. The name of the wine already tells it.
New Zealand’s Four Apostles against South European strength in the bottle
On the nose (after some hours decanting, just like the other three samples) you find a latent fruitiness with an herbal and earthy overlay, paired with hints of an interesting minerality, notes of dried raspberries and even some slight salty reminiscence. On the palate, the body is round and elegant, with flavours of red forest berries, cassis leaves, notes of exotic spices and leather. The finish is long and very pleasant.
Second wine we tasted was Quater 2005 from Firriato, a Sicilian winery founded in 1985. This Casa Vinicola is renowned for its tenacity in blending meticulously the mash of indigenous grape varieties, voire the ready fermented, young wines. Quater, which means four in Latin, is an assemblage of mostly Nero d’Avola and Perricone with moderate parts of Frappato and Nerello Cappuccio.
The alcohol strength is 14, 5°, which is normal for these wines, making it a powerful antagonist compared with the finer and elegant red from the antipodes.
Deep ruby coloured, Quarter I.G.T. Sicilia shows an array of dark spices and blueberries on the nose, and tangles the palate with a farandole of warm, mellow tannins, combined with a powerful, straight structure and a medium yet pleasant finish. Even if this wine got 3 Bicchieri in the Gambero Rosso, the lack of elegant layers of fruitiness is the main reason why it is not a real imminence against the Four Apostles.
Domaine Tempier is a winery situated in Plan du Castellet, a village in the Département du Var. The wine is a perfect example of an old-style Bandol. This A.O.C. wine is made with Mourvèdre (75%) the rest being Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan. On the nose this wine shows evident notes of savage animal character with some chalky and mineral undertones. On the palate, you will find round and very ripe aromas, as well as an unusual acidity, which makes it a wine with a middleweight structure. The finish is grainy dry, lightly sour and – sorry for this – a bit short. Again, the detractor from the Southern Hemisphere wins without exertion this equation.
The author together with James Vuletic (left) in his Providence vineyard in Matakana / NZ
Finally the last sample we tasted – Cuvée Vieilles Vignes from Domaine Gauby – impressed quite a lot. Perfectly elaborated and with a long 27 months of ripening in the vats and finally in the bottles are at the origin of a wine with a garnet robe, showing also some shades of purple.
The Cuvée is made mostly with Grenache Noir and Syrah, but some Mourvèdre and Carignan are bringing in more rustic aromas, called arômes de garrigue et de sous-bois in France.
On the nose we loved the bouquet of dried flowers, ripe cherries and some reminders of macerated black plums. The fruitiness on the palate has an unexpected elegance for a Côtes du Roussillon Villages. On the other hand, the alcohol strength is only 13, 5°, which explains a bit the more refined style of this wine. If there was a competitor worth naming against the Four Saints from the other end of the world, it would be without any doubt the Gauby Vieilles Vignes.
>> In Luxemburg Providence wines are available at Caves Rossi – 53, rue Gaffelt in L-3480 Dudelange, phone number 00352510654.
Firriato Sicilian Reds are distributed in the Grand-Duchy by IL Vinaio dal Notaro, 149, rue de la Tour Jacob in L-1831 Luxemburg-Clausen. More details under phone 00352-423070.
Finally both Bandol Domaine Tempier and also Domaine Gauby Vieilles Vignes can be found in different vintages at Caves Wengler – Châteaux et Domaines – in Rosport. Their Vinothèque and tasting room is also situated in Rosport, Rue Neuve, numéro 2. More information provided under the telephone number 00352 730373.
