28.01.2010

Zu Besuch auf Château Kefraya im Libanon

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10.01.2010

Domaines de Vinsmoselle – The Epiphany Tasting 2010

von Romain in Location Luxembourg

 

Under the notation „Vinsmoselle Epiphany Tasting“ this is the first time we publish detailed tasting notes of a bigger array of selected wines from the actual vintage, all of them elaborated by Domaines de Vinsmoselle, Luxemburg’s important Vintners Cooperative. In the future, “Vinsmoselle Epiphany Tasting” will become an annual classic within this highly specialized homepage.

 

Epiphany is known as the feast in honour of the arriving of the wise men. Just like the three kings called to the light, bringing Gold, myrrh and Frankincense as their gifts, Moselle wines too, are offering these distinctions to those who are patient enough to look closer at their colour, to take a placidly smell, soaking in the fine scents and fragrances of an Auxerrois, a Riesling or a Traminer, and by doing so, finally nursing a glass of white with a pleasure, only a connoisseur could originate.

 

Within the tasting room of Domaines de Vinsmoselle Wellenstein’s premises, and in company of Bernd Karl, technical director as well as the head winemaker of Luxembourg’ sole vintners cooperative, and Ruth Latin-Herber, herself responsible for the company’s press relations, we had the rare opportunity to taste 33 selected wines of the newest release, i.e. from the vintage 2008.

 

The following wine descriptions are listed after grape names, e.g. Auxerrois, Riesling or Pinot Gris. This is evident, because just like the near Alsace Wine Region, Luxemburg’s still wines are monovarietals and eponymous to the grapes they are made with. Only the Crémants, which are the top quality sparklings from the region, can be elaborated as an assemblage of different varieties. In the near future, it seems that different still wines could be Cuvées, too. If this will be, the signification of specific terroirs has to be reassured.

 

 dreikonigsverkostung-jan2010-vinumlu

We tasted 33 wines from the vintage 2008.  

 

To get us in the mood, (the tasting started around 10 a.m. and went on until around 1 p.m.) we will first describe the new Crémant Cuvées that will also be highlighted during the upcoming World Exhibition in Shanghai, China this year. Domaine Poll-Fabaire Shanghai Cuvée Brut und Cuvée Rosé are top-class sparklings, made out of different grapes. Obviously, these first two wines are contrary to the rule we explained a few lines above.

 

For the clearer understanding, please note that GPC means „Grand Premier Cru“ which is a quality characteristic similar to the ones used in France. Concerning the organoleptic descriptions, C stands for COLOUR, N reminds the NOSE of the wine, and P describes its impressions on the PALATE.

 

1. Cuvée Shanghai, Crémant de Luxembourg Brut

C: light golden, with a fine, brisk cordon.

N: a fresh fruitiness, with lime flavours attended with clearly floral hints.

P: appealing, with citrus and litchi aromas, fresh and long finish.

 

2. Cuvée Shanghai, Crémant de Luxembourg Brut Rosé

C: dusty pink, with fine salmon-coloured hues.

N: exotic fruits and flavours of buttered toast.

P: fruity and very aromatic with nuances remembering white pepper. Finish medium, with well balanced acidity.

 

Auxerrois 2008

1. Stadtbredimus Primerberg Grand Premier Cru (= GPC)

C: light golden.

N: elegant, light nutty bouquet with notes of marzipan.

P:  good freshness with a mineral undertone, hints of white blossoms and dried kitchen herbs.

 

2. Wormeldange Pietert GPC

C: light greenish tones.

N: opulent fruitiness with good perceptible, nutty flavours.

P: a more complex Auxerrois, firm structure and good acidity. Very long finish.

 

3. Remich Hôpertsbour GPC

C: light greenish golden.

N: already soft and rounded bouquet.

P: shows spicy aromas and decent bitter tones in the finish. Remembering fresh, green apples.

 

4. Coteaux de Schengen GPC

C: light greenish golden.

N: refined and concentrate fruitiness.

P: rounded structure with good fruitiness, full-bodied and with a pleasing, long finish.

This is a top-pairing with food.

 

5. Grevenmacher Rosenberg GPC

C: light golden.

N: spicy and aromatic bouquet with floral nuances.

P: lots of floral aromas, hints of scented roses.

 

 

 

 stadtbredimus-panorama-vinumlu

The bend of the Moselle River near the village of Stadtbredimus.

 

 Pinot Blanc 2008

 

1. Greiveldange Herrenberg GPC

C: very pale.

N: a bit restrained, fine mineral undertones are detectable.

G. good minerality and a well rounded body with respectable acidity.

 

2. Wormeldange Mohrberg GPC

C: light golden, greenish hints.

N: bouquet of exotic fruits, yellow pears and white blossoms.

P: ample with expressive acidity that gives it a lively, fresh structure. Pleasant fruity aftertaste and a long finish.

 

3. Bech-Kleinmacher Enschberg GPC

C: pale golden

N: expressive notes of yellow stone fruits (peaches, apricots), also Williams pear

P: nice finesse and a good harmony between acidity and fruitiness. A well defined Pinot Blanc.

 

4. Machtum Hohfels GPC

C: pale with greenish hues

N: fine bouquet of exotic fruits (litchi)

P: good fruitiness with appeals of marzipan (green almonds). Good perceptible minerality on the middle-long finish.

 

5. Coteaux de Schengen GPC

C: pale golden

N: exotic fruitiness with hazelnut underlayers

P: good structured, shows panoply of smoky fruitiness. A pleasant wine, quite short on the finish.

 

6. Schengen Prestige GPC

C: straw golden with hints of green

N: multilayered bouquet, reminding white blossoms (acacia) and yellow plums

P: plenty of fruity scents, a complex and aromatic Pinot Blanc.

 

 

Chardonnay 2008

 

1. Coteaux de Grevenmacher GPC

C: pale golden

N: after some vegetal layers (asparagus) strong fruitiness reminding that of ripe bananas

P: simple structured Chardonnay, light bitter undertones with a quick finish. Its rareness makes it appealing.

 

Riesling 2008

 

1. Stadtbredimus Goldberg GPC

C: very pale with greenish hues

N: good fruitiness with expressive scents of citrus fruits

P: powerful with lots of good acidity, followed by admirable minerality. Solid, long finish.

 

2. Greiveldange Hütte GPC

C: very pale with greenish shades

N: flowery accents, alluring notes of summer blossom honey.

P: good minerality intertwined with a lively fruitiness. Shows round and harmonic structure, goes down well.

 

3. Wormeldange Wousselt GPC

C: very pale, with bright greenish hues

N: expressive bouquet of pineapple and mangoes. Nice, ripe fruitiness.

P: very dense aromas of juicy fruits. Ripe finish with fine acidity and spiciness (dried herbs) Strong potential.

 

4. Coteaux de Schengen GPC

C: greenish-golden

N: vivid nuances of green apples and clover honey

P: stays fresh through the finish, but with brawny fruitiness. A modern offshoot of Moselle Riesling.

 

5. Grevenmacher Fels GPC

C: pale golden, greenish hues

N: exotic fruits and citrus, precisely alluring notes of pineapple and lime.

P: spicy aromas and solid acidity. This Riesling shows nice minerality within its long finish. Whiffs of spicy dried herbs, seems to have impressive potential.

 

6. Wellenstein Kurschels GPC

C: pale golden with greenish layers

N: bouquet of apricots and bonbon anglais with soupçons of menthol as second impressions

P: elegant and complex Riesling with lots of minerality and appealing acidity. Well done.

 

7.Schengen Prestige GPC

C: bright, clear golden

N: rich panoply of ripe fruitiness

P: Ripe, modern-style Riesling, hints of quince jelly. Solid and long finish.

 

 

 wintrange-hommelsbierg-vinumlu

Wintrange Hommelsbierg is one of Luxemburg’s top vineyards

 

Pinot Gris 2008

 

1. Greiveldange Primerberg GPC

C: pale golden

N: Surprisingly aromatic, with sweet notes and hints of anise seed

P: silky, with a long fruit-filled finish.

 

2. Wormeldange Mohrberg GPC

C: pale golden

N: Alluring notes of balsamic fruitiness with smoky undertones

P: Solid beam of fresh acidity, Very tasty, with impressive structure and a powerful finish

 

3. Coteaux de Schengen GPC

C: pale yellow

N: a broader aromatic character, notes of ripe apricots

P: strong and solid structure, however with a middle finish.

 

4. Wellenstein Foulschette GPC

C: pale with greenish shades

N: impressive notes of minerality followed by notes of exotic fruits and floral hints, mostly violets

P: big structure with rich fruitiness, which pumps through the finish.

 

5. Machtum Ongkâf GPC

C: very pale

N: shows a floral and mineral bouquet

P: honeysuckle and mineral on a warm and long finish. Yet very young.

 

6. Schengen Prestige GPC

C: clear golden with light amber hints

N: powerful and dense layers of fruitiness

P: opulent, shows the result of extreme mature grapes. Lots of exotic fruit aromas and a muscular finish. This is a purely gastronomic wine.

 

Gewürztraminer 2008

 

1. Machtum Gëllebour GPC

C: light golden

N: fine minerality and notes of musk rose petals

P: fine fruitiness and elegant, floral aromas. The elegant old style of our Gewürztraminers.

 

2.  Coteaux de Schengen GPC

C: straw yellow with golden hints

N: litchi style, juicy exotic fruits (litchi, Rambutan) and some light vegetal undertones.

P: Nice exotic fruit flavours with sweet earth notes trough the middle-long finish.

 

3. Schengen Prestige GPC

C: very bright amber colour

N: impressive depth, with notes of quince jelly and macerated litchis.

P: Ripe, lush aromas with a warm, spicy undertone. Very intense and super long finish.

 

Late Harvest Wines 2008

 

1. Auxerrois Strohwein GPC (Straw Wine, 189 Oechsle, 200 g. rs, 7.0° Acidity)

C: bright golden with greenish hints

N: gorgeous nose of dried spices and herbs, lots of smoke and earthy tones. Dense fruitiness and honey fragrances.

P: fruit-filled structure and amazingly opulent trough the supple finish.

 

2. Gewürztraminer Strohwein GPC (Straw Wine, 211 Oechsle, 229 g. rs, 6.5° Acidity)

C: bright golden coloured

N: brawny bouquet of exotic fruits, yet elegant layers with fine acidity.

P: an impressive, but elegant wine with a well-defined structure. Delicious fruitiness and a long finish.

 

3. Riesling Eiswein GPC (Icewine, 193 Oechsle, 260 g. rs, 14.6° Acidity)

C: golden with greenish hues

N: alluring notes of citrus and rhubarb compote, intertwined with a sweet smokiness.

P: extremely dense structure, very good balance between sweet, ripe fruitiness and elegant acidity. This is a baby just starting its life circle, which could be decades if the bottle is well stored.

 

To conclude, it occurs to recall that the year 2008 can be described as a good vintage at the Luxemburg Moselle wine region, especially for Riesling and Gewürztraminer wines.


01.01.2010

Rheinhessen, Land der 1000 Hügel

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